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Custom Cabinet Doors

Glass Artist:  Sandy Johnson

Project Details 

• Panel Size: 9" x 20 1/2"

• 23 pieces

• 1/8" Zinc border

• Lead construction

• Glass bevel cluster, clear glue chip & clear seedy glass

These cabinet door panels are being custom made for Pat in Lynn Creek, MO.  Thank you, Pat!

Before                     After

1.  Create cartoon & patterns to size

3.  Cut apart pattern 
(note: lead shears are used to leave exact spacing between the pieces for the lead width)

It seems like this takes forever to get done - after this it starts coming together quickly.  For a glass artist, the prep is always the longest - I guess we just can't wait to get to cutting!

For these, a selection of clear pattern glass and bevels were used.  The glass selected was:

• Clear seedy
• Clear glue chip
• Bevel Cluster ABC400

Selecting the glass is one of the most difficult and most rewarding.  There are literally thousands of different glass styles and colors available - each with it's own characteristics.  Pat choose neutral & very elegant glass that will compliment the built-in cabinet it's going into.  The whole aesthetics of the glass piece is controlled by the glass selected.  Sometimes it takes hours to find just the right pieces.

*All clear textures and bevels are used in these cabinets.

To prepare cutting the individual glass pieces, I tape the pattern piece down to the selected color, referring to the sample printout often.  I also decide which way the "grain" of the glass should run in each piece and lay each pattern down appropriately.  I use double-sided tape to stick the pattern pieces to the glass for cutting and grinding.  I feel I can be more accurate this way.

Using a glass cutter (Fletcher Pistol Grip is shown), cut along the pattern.  I don't try to get it exact at this point.  Some will argue, but I still like to perfect each piece with the grinder.

I like to cut all the pieces out at the same time, then go back individually and clean them up and get them to the exact size with my grinder.  Notice that I still have the pattern taped to each piece; this will guide me as to what glass needs removed during grinding.

The grinder enables me to get the piece to the exact size needed.  Some glass artists think you should be able to cut the glass "perfect".  I say it's year 2001, and why not use the tools available?!  I could also dig a hole with a spoon, but I prefer to use the tool that does the best job.

    
9.  Assembling the panel

Each piece is articulately cut, ground, and placed onto the layout - leaving approximately 1/32nd of an inch of tolerance between the pieces.    In other words, each piece has to be cut and ground to almost perfection.

I usually build as I go, placing the lead between the pieces, moving in a down-and-out direction.  I have seen artists that cut and grind all the pieces then go back and place the lead in. Because of the symmetric layout,  I cut & ground all the pieces then began assembly.  

I also believe in sizing it to perfect dimensions.  Whether they get framed or go into a window, I feel having them square is VERY important.  (Beware...some artists aren't so concerning.)  

You should leave 1/8" all the way around.

The next step is to solder all the joints together (on both the front and back of the panel).  The required tools include:

• Soldering iron

• Rheostat (temperature control)

• Flux & brush

• Solder

and, of course, safety glasses are worn 100% of the time!

Solder will only stick to the areas that have flux applied to them.  I use a gel flux.  I find I can apply it more carefully than a liquid flux without the sizzle from a liquid flux. 

With a hot soldering iron, get a small ball of solder on the tip of the iron and touch it steady to the area to be soldered.  Holding it on the area for a few seconds, then lifting straight up will result in a smooth flow of solder.  Solder all the joints (it's easier than you think to forget one or two!)  After the front surface is complete, gently turn the panel over and solder all the joints on the back side.  Clean well with dishwashing soap and baking soda.  The baking soda neutralizes the acid in the flux.

13.  Putty the lead lines

The step that solidifies all the pieces together and makes the window water-tight is the putty process.  It's messy, smelly, and is great for removing stress!  An oil-based putty is spread out over the panel and using a scrub brush in a circular motion, lightly "push" the putty under the lead.  To absorb the extra putty, I use wood shavings left over from our furniture making.

Let it setup for 24-48 hours.  The longer, the better - remember, the putty is oil based and it does smell.  Once the putty has hardened, use a small wooden skewer  (kabob stick) to clean the extra putty from around the lead.

(Optional)

14.  Apply patina

This step is optional.  
This is where I would apply a patina (acid that changes the color of the lead) if the client wants it.  Colors available include: copper, black, bronze).

15.  Clean, wax & polish
and insert into door

The final step is cleaning and polishing.  GOOD 'OLE ELBOW GREASE!  Clean with a soft cloth and remove any unwanted extra putty with wooden skewers or toothpicks, etc.  Apply a stained glass wax or a good car wax that contains carnauba oil.  This will reduce chemical reactions and chalky buildup that happens when pieces don't get cleaned well enough or is exposed to pollutants.