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1. Create cartoon & patterns to size
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These custom cabinet door panels
will really add elegance to a built in cabinet. I use GlassEye
2000 software to create & adjust the pattern to size. Print/make 3
copies (1 is transferred to freezer paper to use for the glass). I print out a miniature version to refer to for glass
information,
grain direction and
assembly. (this is called a "cartoon".) |
2. 2 full-size copies & cartoon |
One full-size copy is used on the layout board,
and the other is used to cut apart for pattern pieces on glass and the
third is to refer to and keep as an original. |
3. Cut apart pattern
(note: foil shears are used to leave exact spacing between the pieces for
the lead width)
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I made one full-size copy by
tracing it onto freezer paper (This paper doesn't fall
apart when wet). I use foil shears as this will be
a foil assembly (versus lead).
It seems like this takes forever to get done - after this it starts
coming together quickly. For a glass artist, the prep is always the
longest - I guess we just can't wait to get to cutting!
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4. Select glass
glass bench holding various choices
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Selecting the glass is one of the most difficult and
most rewarding. There are literally thousands of different glass
styles and colors available - each with it's own characteristics.
Chip & Beverly choose elegant glass that is very up-to-date. The
whole aesthetics of the glass piece is controlled by the glass
selected. Sometimes it takes hours to find just the right pieces. |
5. Tape pattern pieces to glass
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To prepare cutting the individual glass pieces, I tape
the pattern piece down to the selected color, referring to the sample
printout often. I also decide which way the "grain" of the
glass should run in each piece and lay each pattern down appropriately.
I use double-sided tape to stick the pattern pieces to
the glass for cutting and grinding. I feel I can be more accurate
this way. |
6. Cut pieces apart |
Using a glass cutter (Fletcher Pistol Grip is shown),
cut along the pattern. I don't try to get it exact at this
point. Some will argue, but I still like to perfect each piece with
the grinder. |
7. Glass pieces assembled on layout |
I like to cut all the pieces out at the same time, then
go back individually and clean them up and get them to the exact size with
my grinder. Notice that I still have the pattern taped to each
piece; this will guide me as to what glass needs removed during grinding.
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8. Glass piece on grinder surface |
The grinder enables me to get the piece to the exact
size needed. Some glass artists think you should be able to cut the
glass "perfect". I say it's year 2001, and why not use the
tools available?! I could also dig a hole with a spoon, but I prefer
to use the tool that does the best job.
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9. Assembling the panel
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Each piece is articulately cut, ground, and placed onto
the layout - leaving approximately 1/32nd of an inch of tolerance between
the pieces. In other words, each piece has to be cut and
ground to almost perfection.
I
believe in sizing it to perfect dimensions. Whether they get framed
or go into a window, I feel having them square is VERY important.
(Beware...some artists aren't so concerning.) You
should leave 1/8" all the way around. |
10. Foil Pieces
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11. The soldering station |
The next step is to solder all the joints together (on
both the front and back of the panel). The required tools include:
and,
of course, safety glasses are worn 100% of the time!
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12. Flux all joints |
Solder will only stick to the areas that have flux
applied to them. I use a gel flux. I find I can apply it more
carefully than a liquid flux without the sizzle from a liquid flux. |
13. Apply the solder |
With a hot soldering iron, get a small ball of solder
on the tip of the iron and touch it steady to the area to be
soldered. Holding it on the area for a few seconds, then lifting
straight up will result in a smooth flow of solder. Solder all the
joints (it's easier than you think to forget one or two!) After the
front surface is complete, gently turn the panel over and solder all the
joints on the back side. Clean well with dishwashing soap and baking
soda. The baking soda neutralizes the acid in the flux. |
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(Optional)
14. Apply patina |
This step is optional.
This is where I would apply a patina (acid that changes the color of the
lead) if the client wants it. Colors available include: copper,
black, bronze). |
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15. Clean, wax & polish
and insert into space |
The final step is cleaning and polishing. GOOD
'OLE ELBOW GREASE! Clean with a soft cloth Apply a stained
glass wax or a good car wax that contains carnauba wax. This will
reduce chemical reactions and chalky buildup that happens when pieces
don't get cleaned well enough or is exposed to pollutants.
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For a custom designed piece, send us an e-mail, fax, or snail mail it with
the desired design and desired colors. Refer to each glass
manufacturer for a sample listing of colors available. We will then
quote you a price for your custom designed glass piece. We will make every
effort possible to match your desired color choices.
